DD: Of boning and binding.
Oct. 26th, 2009 10:44 am![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
janestarzWelcome back to the dress diaries. Previous posts in this dress diary:
The prelude;
Part I;
Part II;
Part III;
Part IV;
Part V;
Part VI;
Part VII;
I finished the bodys.
And by Jove, it was high time I did so! I started, actually started work on this project on the first of June. Four and a half months of work...but it's finished. And it's pretty. And it's very, very pink.
Follow me to the final leg of the journey.
Last entry in the dressdiaries left me with the bodys' facing and eyelets done. It was time to sew the boning channels and assemle the pieces. I forgot to check where the last DD-post left off, so I don't have any pictures of this, but rest assured it worked out fine. I used boning tape on the inside, and drew straight lines down the front and back to sew them down. After the boning channels were all sewn, I sewed the front and back together, and I could add the final boning channels in the side seam. After that, it was just a matter of measuring the bones.
And cutting the bones.
And tipping the bones.
Argh! How I wish I just had bones in twenty different sizes available to me! If there's one thing I loathe, it's the endless shaping of bones before dipping them. And dipping bones is a PITA as well!
Luckily, I could recruit NoKey to help out. I promised him House, and we sat in the atelier, watching House while he used a dremel to shape the tips of the bones. In the trash bin beneath the dremel, you can see the discarded remains of Mock-up #3. I opened up the bone channels that were still unscathed with mr.Seamripper, thoroughly demolishing the mock-up. At least we could re-use the bones, cutting them down to a smaller size, reshaping the edges, and re-tipping the ends.
We dipped the bones in polyester resin, just like the previous times, only this time we let them dry hanging, in stead of lying down. NoKey rigged a way to do this (and I see I forgot to include a photo of that as well), using clothes hangers and clothespins. We could only dip one end at a time, and we ended up doing four runs of the bones - twice on each side.
Some didn't tip so well. The resin dripped down on newspapers, or dried in droplet-shapes. Luckily, the resin can be manipulated with cutters and sanding paper. The bones that had weird drops on them, I sanded down to a more acceptable shape using a rough and a smoother sanding paper.
This was a bit of work, and the resin smelled weird. I was glad when it was done!
Bones shaped, tipped and inserted. Next up... the binding.
With bones, pre-binding.
Sewing binding on can be a rather gruelling experience. The bones are already in their channels and no matter how many personal protection devices you wear (like goggles! I always wear goggles!) it still startles the hell out of me when my needle breaks. Luckily, this time it didn't. I folded the bias tape open on one end, put it right-side to right-side on the bodys and sewed along the fold, tucking the stitch inside the tape as I folded it up and over the edge.
The rest is handwork.
And this doesn't help much... a rare picture of both our kitties lying together on the couch. They're far too jealous to do this often, and it certainly didn't help with my handsewing.
I use a herringbone stitch to secure the binding on the inside. I love this stitch as it's fast and can deal with varying tension and stretch.
After the binding is finished, I love to show details. The satin bias tape is lovely, and the binding looks really good!
Around the straps I whip-stitched the binding down, because of the extreme curve.
A detailed macro of the bones in their binding. Love the depth of this shot!
The bodys with the binding done!
This is the shape the bodys would give me if I could close it completely. Looks blocky, doesn't it? I'm glad, in a way, that I can't lace them fully closed. There's at least a 5 cm gap at the front, which will allow for a more conical shape. But I did keep in mind that with my current health regime I might lose some weight and bulk so perhaps in the future I can lace them closed. If need be, I could undo the side seam and binding, and take it in a bit there.
And now for the 'undressed' pictures!
Camicia, an Italian shift. This is very comfortable. I look shorter in it.
The front of the bodys is lovely rigid and flat, according to period standards (it is a 16th century pattern I adapted, after all). The side view shows this well. The cleavage is very academic.
As for the back: it could do with an extra bone or two because it's rather wrinkly, but it'll do for underwear. I doubt the wrinkles would show through a woolen dress.
I extended the back panel, as my back fat rolls were having a fight with the bottom edge of mock-up#3. This is actually more comfortable! I can still add tabs later if I feel like it, but for now, I'll leave it as it is.
I am really glad with how this turned out, it's very pretty!
I've already started on the dress, but I figured I'd post that in a seperate dress diary post. I miscalculated and there's still three weeks until Maerquin. Now that the bodys are done, I am very, very confident I'll make that deadline unless something breaks. I know how little work the mock-up dress was, compared to the bodys.
The prelude;
Part I;
Part II;
Part III;
Part IV;
Part V;
Part VI;
Part VII;
I finished the bodys.
And by Jove, it was high time I did so! I started, actually started work on this project on the first of June. Four and a half months of work...but it's finished. And it's pretty. And it's very, very pink.
Follow me to the final leg of the journey.
Last entry in the dressdiaries left me with the bodys' facing and eyelets done. It was time to sew the boning channels and assemle the pieces. I forgot to check where the last DD-post left off, so I don't have any pictures of this, but rest assured it worked out fine. I used boning tape on the inside, and drew straight lines down the front and back to sew them down. After the boning channels were all sewn, I sewed the front and back together, and I could add the final boning channels in the side seam. After that, it was just a matter of measuring the bones.
And cutting the bones.
And tipping the bones.
Argh! How I wish I just had bones in twenty different sizes available to me! If there's one thing I loathe, it's the endless shaping of bones before dipping them. And dipping bones is a PITA as well!
Luckily, I could recruit NoKey to help out. I promised him House, and we sat in the atelier, watching House while he used a dremel to shape the tips of the bones. In the trash bin beneath the dremel, you can see the discarded remains of Mock-up #3. I opened up the bone channels that were still unscathed with mr.Seamripper, thoroughly demolishing the mock-up. At least we could re-use the bones, cutting them down to a smaller size, reshaping the edges, and re-tipping the ends.
We dipped the bones in polyester resin, just like the previous times, only this time we let them dry hanging, in stead of lying down. NoKey rigged a way to do this (and I see I forgot to include a photo of that as well), using clothes hangers and clothespins. We could only dip one end at a time, and we ended up doing four runs of the bones - twice on each side.
Some didn't tip so well. The resin dripped down on newspapers, or dried in droplet-shapes. Luckily, the resin can be manipulated with cutters and sanding paper. The bones that had weird drops on them, I sanded down to a more acceptable shape using a rough and a smoother sanding paper.
This was a bit of work, and the resin smelled weird. I was glad when it was done!
Bones shaped, tipped and inserted. Next up... the binding.
With bones, pre-binding.
Sewing binding on can be a rather gruelling experience. The bones are already in their channels and no matter how many personal protection devices you wear (like goggles! I always wear goggles!) it still startles the hell out of me when my needle breaks. Luckily, this time it didn't. I folded the bias tape open on one end, put it right-side to right-side on the bodys and sewed along the fold, tucking the stitch inside the tape as I folded it up and over the edge.
The rest is handwork.
And this doesn't help much... a rare picture of both our kitties lying together on the couch. They're far too jealous to do this often, and it certainly didn't help with my handsewing.
I use a herringbone stitch to secure the binding on the inside. I love this stitch as it's fast and can deal with varying tension and stretch.
After the binding is finished, I love to show details. The satin bias tape is lovely, and the binding looks really good!
Around the straps I whip-stitched the binding down, because of the extreme curve.
A detailed macro of the bones in their binding. Love the depth of this shot!
The bodys with the binding done!
This is the shape the bodys would give me if I could close it completely. Looks blocky, doesn't it? I'm glad, in a way, that I can't lace them fully closed. There's at least a 5 cm gap at the front, which will allow for a more conical shape. But I did keep in mind that with my current health regime I might lose some weight and bulk so perhaps in the future I can lace them closed. If need be, I could undo the side seam and binding, and take it in a bit there.
And now for the 'undressed' pictures!
Camicia, an Italian shift. This is very comfortable. I look shorter in it.
The front of the bodys is lovely rigid and flat, according to period standards (it is a 16th century pattern I adapted, after all). The side view shows this well. The cleavage is very academic.
As for the back: it could do with an extra bone or two because it's rather wrinkly, but it'll do for underwear. I doubt the wrinkles would show through a woolen dress.
I extended the back panel, as my back fat rolls were having a fight with the bottom edge of mock-up#3. This is actually more comfortable! I can still add tabs later if I feel like it, but for now, I'll leave it as it is.
I am really glad with how this turned out, it's very pretty!
I've already started on the dress, but I figured I'd post that in a seperate dress diary post. I miscalculated and there's still three weeks until Maerquin. Now that the bodys are done, I am very, very confident I'll make that deadline unless something breaks. I know how little work the mock-up dress was, compared to the bodys.
![[identity profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/openid.png){kind=small}
no subject
Date: 2009-10-26 10:24 am (UTC)I still want to make a stomacer for the front gap, but that should be a piece of cake.
no subject
Date: 2009-10-26 10:29 am (UTC)Kun je wel een beetje buigen en zitten met zo'n bodice? Hij staat zo recht op je heupen.
no subject
Date: 2009-10-26 10:33 am (UTC)Het maken en dragen van een mock-up helpt echt heel veel, gewoon omdat je precies weet waar de knelpunten zitten!
no subject
Date: 2009-10-26 10:53 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2009-10-26 10:59 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2009-10-26 12:09 pm (UTC)Looking forward to seeing the rest of the outfit.
no subject
Date: 2009-10-26 12:27 pm (UTC)I tried stays once, and they were a disaster. The problem? The canvas I used for a strength layer stretched a lot. I described it earlier in the dress diary, that when the mock-up #2 closed, the mock-up#3 didn't, by 8 cm at the top. All because of canvas.
I vowed to only use coutil for a strength layer since then!
(And now I want to revisit stays too, since I know what went wrong...)
no subject
Date: 2009-10-26 12:21 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2009-10-26 12:25 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2009-10-26 02:14 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2009-10-26 02:37 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2009-10-26 03:01 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2009-10-26 03:09 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2009-10-26 04:36 pm (UTC)I can't wait to see the completed outfit for Marianne.
see you soon at Maerquin!
no subject
Date: 2009-10-26 05:09 pm (UTC)As romantic as the bodys look, they're not easy to get on. I have to unlace all but the lowest three or four holes to get in and out of them. But I can lace the entire thing myself, and that's a pro!
no subject
Date: 2009-10-26 04:51 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2009-10-26 05:09 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2009-10-26 07:03 pm (UTC)But are you aware of the dangers of giving your character a new costume...
no subject
Date: 2009-10-28 08:26 am (UTC)Ben heel erg benieuwd naar de jurk!
no subject
Date: 2009-10-28 09:53 am (UTC)Het baleintape (ik gebruik het officiele spul van Vena Cava (http://www.venacavadesign.co.uk/)) blijft prima langs een kalklijntje liggen. Ik speld het niet eens elke keer, en een rijgdraad is in dit hele corset niet 1 keer gebruikt. Misschien is het gewoon een kwestie van los laten liggen en strak trekken terwijl je het naait? Of misschien is de coutil stevig genoeg om zich te gedragen als onderlaag.
De jurk... is coming along nicely. Soon...
no subject
Date: 2009-10-28 12:30 pm (UTC)Ik heb me wel altijd afgevraagd hoe het komt dat in Elizabethaanse corsetten zoveel meer tijd gaat zitten. Op het eerste gezicht zien ze er (behalve de shitload aan baleinen :D) qua vorm een stuk simpeler uit dan Victoriaanse. Maar goed, als het uitbetaaldag ga ik jouw site eens plunderen voor het RH833 patroon, want ik popel om mezelf te teisteren met onmogelijke projecten :D
no subject
Date: 2009-10-28 01:11 pm (UTC)