Three cheers for the costumers!
Oct. 15th, 2009 01:54 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
janestarzSince my rib is killing me when I drive the recumbent I've been taking the bus again. I spent a good hour yesterday reading the historical blurb in "The Tudor Tailor" by Ninya Mikhaila and Jane Malcolm-Davies. I rarely read these kinds of texts since it can be pretty hard to concentrate on academical texts outside my field of expertise, but this is actually written well enough to be gripping, entertaining, and actually quite fascinating.
There's two tiny epiphany's I want to share today. I'll be quoting from the book, and if this doesn't persuade you to buy it, the lovely patterns to scale might. If ever you need a King Henry or a Lord Percy or even an Edmund Blackadder, this is the book to buy!
I love this. If you look at how a person dressed, you could tell not only their marital status, but also if their family was rich and what kind of occupation they had!
Will you just translate this to larp? In stead of having just one generic costume, with one (or three) seperate clean shirts underneath is normal. But then change the apparal as your character develops! An acolyte can start out in a simple shirt or even a robe, but then add a second robe over the first once he becomes a first-level mage. Add symbols for further advancement, a different set of sleeves, elaborate pinking or sashing....endless options! And no skimping on stuff...it's a financial investment as well as a statement.
(I'm not merely trying to justify getting Marianne a new dress...)
But it's a fascinating concept. As much as we can tell a person's favorite music style to some extent by what they are wearing in these days, in the days of yore you could even tell what kind of a job they had, what their family's status was, and what status they held within the family. It's like a ranking system throughout your clothes, and not just in one pip on the collar like Starfleet does.
The other thing I loved from this book is the following passage.
This. I just love how they look at the 16th century and say "it was made by a team of specialists". Most people that order a costume have no idea what kind of work goes into it. It's good to for once have someone understand the extent of the work. Even if what I make might not be historically accurate at all, it's still inspired by something a team of specialists make. As is, for that matter, the mundanewear I make: inspired by the haute couture created in turn by a team of 21st century specialists. Perhaps not directly, but influenced nonetheless.
I have many hobbies. I'm a fair seamstress, an adequate enough weaver, and I dabble in knitting and embroidery. I've not devoted my life to making shifts, nor have I any intention to do so. But just imagine that if you did, it would take five to ten of these kind of devoted people to recreate a stunning garment like in the 16th century. It's a level of dedication that might not be attainable for even the most multi-tasking 21st century tailor or seamstress.
It's quite something to take in.
So here's to you, all the costumers and seamstresses and tailors who give a damn about at least some research! To all of you who are inspired and are willing to make stuff fit around your body, to have something pretty to wear, and to aspire to making something beautiful.
Three cheers for the costumers!
There's two tiny epiphany's I want to share today. I'll be quoting from the book, and if this doesn't persuade you to buy it, the lovely patterns to scale might. If ever you need a King Henry or a Lord Percy or even an Edmund Blackadder, this is the book to buy!
"The yardage required would cost one third of his £ 4 a year. The Earl of Leicester paid more for one item of clothing than Shakespeare paid for a house in Stratford-upon-Avon. Decisions as to what to wear were on a par with setting up a home.
Clothes were accumulated over time and gradually constructed an individual's public self. They displayed gender, age, marital status, position in the family and social status. Clothing was an index to income, household, occupation and the type of work undertaken by the wearer. At a broader level, dress was influenced by geographical location, religion, and the availability of labour and materials. In any society where there are few possessions, clothes unite symbolism, aesthetics, utility and financial investment. "
From: The Tudor Tailor, page 11.
I love this. If you look at how a person dressed, you could tell not only their marital status, but also if their family was rich and what kind of occupation they had!
Will you just translate this to larp? In stead of having just one generic costume, with one (or three) seperate clean shirts underneath is normal. But then change the apparal as your character develops! An acolyte can start out in a simple shirt or even a robe, but then add a second robe over the first once he becomes a first-level mage. Add symbols for further advancement, a different set of sleeves, elaborate pinking or sashing....endless options! And no skimping on stuff...it's a financial investment as well as a statement.
(I'm not merely trying to justify getting Marianne a new dress...)
But it's a fascinating concept. As much as we can tell a person's favorite music style to some extent by what they are wearing in these days, in the days of yore you could even tell what kind of a job they had, what their family's status was, and what status they held within the family. It's like a ranking system throughout your clothes, and not just in one pip on the collar like Starfleet does.
The other thing I loved from this book is the following passage.
"In the 16th century, clothes moulded the body, rather than the other way around. The paper pattern had not yet appeared and the modern use of darts to eliminate wrinkles was unknown. Tailors often sewed certain kinds of garments only. They worked with a team of specialists, including proefessional hosiers, cappers, farthingale makers and embroiderers. It is a tall order for one person in the 21st century to reproduce an outfit that was the work of an army of experst in the 16th century. An accurate costume requires considerably higher investment (in terms of research, materials, specialist labour and time) than a stylized costume. However, this higher investment pays off in terms of its educational value. "
From: The Tudor Tailor, page 10.
This. I just love how they look at the 16th century and say "it was made by a team of specialists". Most people that order a costume have no idea what kind of work goes into it. It's good to for once have someone understand the extent of the work. Even if what I make might not be historically accurate at all, it's still inspired by something a team of specialists make. As is, for that matter, the mundanewear I make: inspired by the haute couture created in turn by a team of 21st century specialists. Perhaps not directly, but influenced nonetheless.
I have many hobbies. I'm a fair seamstress, an adequate enough weaver, and I dabble in knitting and embroidery. I've not devoted my life to making shifts, nor have I any intention to do so. But just imagine that if you did, it would take five to ten of these kind of devoted people to recreate a stunning garment like in the 16th century. It's a level of dedication that might not be attainable for even the most multi-tasking 21st century tailor or seamstress.
It's quite something to take in.
So here's to you, all the costumers and seamstresses and tailors who give a damn about at least some research! To all of you who are inspired and are willing to make stuff fit around your body, to have something pretty to wear, and to aspire to making something beautiful.
Three cheers for the costumers!
![[identity profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/openid.png){kind=small}
no subject
Date: 2009-10-15 04:38 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2009-10-15 04:52 pm (UTC)You're going to cost me even more money! :-)
On the other hand. Sinterklaas is coming and we do have to wish for something. Hmmmm.... I think I got an idea.
That was one of the books you had with you last weekend, didn't you?
I didn't open it then, but I read it a while ago on an earlier 'knutseldag'.
I believe it is still on my Amazon wishlist.
But anyway. I really like these kinds of historic details. It brings life to the past.
Shurf
no subject
Date: 2009-10-15 05:23 pm (UTC)http://www.tudortailor.com/
no subject
Date: 2009-10-15 05:24 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2009-10-16 10:56 am (UTC)