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janestarzWelcome one and all to the second part of the dress diary. You can click all images to be taken to a larger version.
The prelude to this dressdiary, e.g. the post with all the ponderings on what to make, can be found here. The first part of the dress diary can be found here.
Last time I spoke about trying to drape a bodice over a corset and deciding upon making a new corset. The 16th century bodys are coming along quite nicely.
The following picture shows the first mock-up lying flat on our table. You can see the black lines where Steelweaver drew alterations to the pattern in. I had added 7 centimeters to the length of the corset, and in the back, all this extra space could be taken out again.
Because the pattern is so simple it is also very easy to adapt. I redrafted the front of the bodys and took out several centimeters in the back, curving the center back seam as well. In the above picture you see the second mock-up, with front facing cut in one piece with the front panels. I chose to go with another canvas mock-up. This time, I also cut the straps of the corset, so we could see how long they needed to be and where they should be attached.
And here I am, wearing the second mock-up. I was surprised to find the corset very loose, even though I used the same amount of bones and the same fabric as last time. Some lift was achieved, but not nearly enough and when I looked at the pictures I was amazed at the amount of boob-squishing. They're pushed very flat into my ribcage, but they're not going up, up and away! Of course the fact that the bodys were very loose didn't help matters either. The bones were trying to come out of the boning channels and that creates a lot of wrinkling too. A large cup size + gravity will do that to a corset if the bones can't stretch the fabric enough.
The silhouette is good, I still like this look -- and I'll like it even more when the appropriate cleavage is achieved. The front of the bodys were a bit too long, though. When I sat down in them, the bones poked into my legs.
About the back of the bodys: much better this time around, but you can see a bit of bubbling at the attach point of the shoulder straps. I adapted the pattern there to take this into account. I think the rest of the wrinkles will be smoothed by a bone or two.
Next time I'll have pictures of the third mock-up; fully boned and executed in coutil, this mock-up will (hopefully) be wearable. Expect a lovely shade of red linen, and a dash of Marianne-pink after all.
The prelude to this dressdiary, e.g. the post with all the ponderings on what to make, can be found here. The first part of the dress diary can be found here.
Last time I spoke about trying to drape a bodice over a corset and deciding upon making a new corset. The 16th century bodys are coming along quite nicely.
The following picture shows the first mock-up lying flat on our table. You can see the black lines where Steelweaver drew alterations to the pattern in. I had added 7 centimeters to the length of the corset, and in the back, all this extra space could be taken out again.
Because the pattern is so simple it is also very easy to adapt. I redrafted the front of the bodys and took out several centimeters in the back, curving the center back seam as well. In the above picture you see the second mock-up, with front facing cut in one piece with the front panels. I chose to go with another canvas mock-up. This time, I also cut the straps of the corset, so we could see how long they needed to be and where they should be attached.
And here I am, wearing the second mock-up. I was surprised to find the corset very loose, even though I used the same amount of bones and the same fabric as last time. Some lift was achieved, but not nearly enough and when I looked at the pictures I was amazed at the amount of boob-squishing. They're pushed very flat into my ribcage, but they're not going up, up and away! Of course the fact that the bodys were very loose didn't help matters either. The bones were trying to come out of the boning channels and that creates a lot of wrinkling too. A large cup size + gravity will do that to a corset if the bones can't stretch the fabric enough.
The silhouette is good, I still like this look -- and I'll like it even more when the appropriate cleavage is achieved. The front of the bodys were a bit too long, though. When I sat down in them, the bones poked into my legs.
About the back of the bodys: much better this time around, but you can see a bit of bubbling at the attach point of the shoulder straps. I adapted the pattern there to take this into account. I think the rest of the wrinkles will be smoothed by a bone or two.
Next time I'll have pictures of the third mock-up; fully boned and executed in coutil, this mock-up will (hopefully) be wearable. Expect a lovely shade of red linen, and a dash of Marianne-pink after all.
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no subject
Date: 2009-06-06 08:23 am (UTC)If it's not skin-tight, that's not horrid, as long as it doesn't shift around on you when you move and is tight enough in the handswidth under the bust so it doesn't let you sag. Tightlacing was never a substitute for a good fit anyways.
Other than that, it's pretty good as long as you can get this to support you. May or may not end up needing a little underboob roll. I could drop by and give you a hand if you want.
no subject
Date: 2009-06-06 09:02 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2009-06-07 09:20 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2009-06-07 02:21 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2009-06-07 03:58 pm (UTC)I might just add the third part of the dressdiary tonight, unless I will work on a new dress for Puerto.