Pretty Friday Pretties
Jan. 30th, 2009 10:47 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
janestarzI come bearing pretties!
I can strike two things off my to do list, as of 20 seconds ago, and that is a good feeling. One of them is for a customer, so I won't elaborate as that's kind of boring.
The other is the outfit for my second night of Lextalionis. It's a multi-purpose vest that can be worn for any role from Ventrue to Brujah and even double as a bartender's vest for any Steampunk setting. It might even work for fantasy, who knows?
The vest was draped on my body as the mannequin I use is proportioned quite differenly. We ended up with a pattern that looked well enough to try out and when I found out my ice blue camo had turned slightly pink I ended up using this cotton instead. It's a very deep printed navy blue and white striped cotton (that has migrated from my mother's stash fifteen years ago to mine). Nathreee insisted on these buttons and they match really well.
The welt pocket turned out very satisfactory as well, thanks to the "Fashion incubator" blog posts I found on how to create a nice welt pocket:
Part I
Part II
The pocket watch was € 5,- on the market in Leiden.
The vest works well with or without the jacket. I have a black blouse I plan to wear underneath.
Tall Jane is Tall!
Having fun with the Reenactor's catalogue. Reenactors are weirrrd.
This was all finished yesterday, so this morning we got to sleep in! I decided to work on Maretak's costume as we're doing very well on the forum indeed. After a lengthy breakfast I started copying parts of my Beriadanwen coat's pattern to new paper and adding a long skirt. I wasn't quite sure what to do with the hemline yet, but I would figure it out later, I guessed.
Only when the time came to actually cut the pattern pieces I discovered that there would be no way I could cut a full-skirted dress out of the available material! I had to improvise, and so it was that I cut out a slightly altered version of the Beriadanwen coat, which fits me very well and allows for ample movement. Furthermore, the fabric for this coat is a light green wool, with a dark undertone in it. I also skipped the split in the back to create a slightly different look. It's not the same coat at all. (Wait till you find out what I did with the sleeves!)
The upside to not cutting a very full skirt was that I also had enough of the lining to make it a fully lined coat. And as the lining colours very well with the corset, I am glad I can, because the coat flaps will open when I walk and the sleeves have slits in them, displaying the lining too.
I was inspired by The Tudor Tailor and proceeded to draft a version of the paned sleeves displayed in that lovely book. I decided against the boning in the sleeve caps, and used the regular Beriadanwen sleeve head for the "inner" layer made of lining cotton. Two layers of lining cotton, as it is quite thin.
Outer layer of the sleeve, cut in strips of 6 cm wide using my rotary cutter and mat. Top left is the chiffon for the headdress. Top right is the lining fabric.
Contrary to all my usual routine, I worked on the sleeves first. The strips I cut needed to be sewn together, and I decided against turning them inside out as I would lose valuable millimeters in doing so, creating a large gap at the sleeve head attachment! I didn't want that, so I serged the two layers of wool together with a 3-thread overlock stitch, and added staystitching to relieve any pressure on the serged edges, hoping this will prevent fraying. I then pinned everything to the inner layers, and serged the top and bottom. But not before pondering the look of the thing.
To the right you can see the outfit as far as it's done now. The bottom layer is the skirt with hand-sewn plastic plants in moss green. The corset is my infamous gingko-leaves corset. The top is a longsleeve that stops at my navel to prevent bulk. The sleeves end in selvedge and cover most of my hand -- as so little store-bought longsleeves do. And the coat I am constructing will go over all this and underneath the corset. Lucky for me the Beriadanwen coat is very well fitted around the waist too, or else bulk would accumulate there as well, making it quite an uncomfortable costume!
I pinned the sleeves to the mannequin before sewing anything down, because - as NoKey so eloquently put it - it looked like Zwarte Piet. I hm-ed. I hmmmmm'd. And then I sewed everything down regardless, instead calling it very promptly Snowwhite-ish. After all, he doesn't have to wear it and he's prejudiced against anything that has to do with Sinterklaas.
I like the sleeves. They won't be any longer than they currently are, and all they need is a strip at the bottom and the hand-dyed fringe I've got lying around somewhere in the box of Dryad-ey goo. It has flash dust, fake vines, vampire ears and even jewelry, and I'm kind of afraid to just blindly stick my hand in.
Perhaps I will have some spare time to sew on the coat tomorrow (probably not, though). Sewing everything together will be easy enough, the continuous rolled collar worked well enough last time I tried it, and the only thing to decide on is how high up the splits will go, and what kind of clasps I can use that won't hurt underneath that corset.
I can strike two things off my to do list, as of 20 seconds ago, and that is a good feeling. One of them is for a customer, so I won't elaborate as that's kind of boring.
The other is the outfit for my second night of Lextalionis. It's a multi-purpose vest that can be worn for any role from Ventrue to Brujah and even double as a bartender's vest for any Steampunk setting. It might even work for fantasy, who knows?
The vest was draped on my body as the mannequin I use is proportioned quite differenly. We ended up with a pattern that looked well enough to try out and when I found out my ice blue camo had turned slightly pink I ended up using this cotton instead. It's a very deep printed navy blue and white striped cotton (that has migrated from my mother's stash fifteen years ago to mine). Nathreee insisted on these buttons and they match really well.
The welt pocket turned out very satisfactory as well, thanks to the "Fashion incubator" blog posts I found on how to create a nice welt pocket:
Part I
Part II
The pocket watch was € 5,- on the market in Leiden.
The vest works well with or without the jacket. I have a black blouse I plan to wear underneath.
Tall Jane is Tall!
Having fun with the Reenactor's catalogue. Reenactors are weirrrd.
This was all finished yesterday, so this morning we got to sleep in! I decided to work on Maretak's costume as we're doing very well on the forum indeed. After a lengthy breakfast I started copying parts of my Beriadanwen coat's pattern to new paper and adding a long skirt. I wasn't quite sure what to do with the hemline yet, but I would figure it out later, I guessed.
Only when the time came to actually cut the pattern pieces I discovered that there would be no way I could cut a full-skirted dress out of the available material! I had to improvise, and so it was that I cut out a slightly altered version of the Beriadanwen coat, which fits me very well and allows for ample movement. Furthermore, the fabric for this coat is a light green wool, with a dark undertone in it. I also skipped the split in the back to create a slightly different look. It's not the same coat at all. (Wait till you find out what I did with the sleeves!)
The upside to not cutting a very full skirt was that I also had enough of the lining to make it a fully lined coat. And as the lining colours very well with the corset, I am glad I can, because the coat flaps will open when I walk and the sleeves have slits in them, displaying the lining too.
I was inspired by The Tudor Tailor and proceeded to draft a version of the paned sleeves displayed in that lovely book. I decided against the boning in the sleeve caps, and used the regular Beriadanwen sleeve head for the "inner" layer made of lining cotton. Two layers of lining cotton, as it is quite thin.
Outer layer of the sleeve, cut in strips of 6 cm wide using my rotary cutter and mat. Top left is the chiffon for the headdress. Top right is the lining fabric.
Contrary to all my usual routine, I worked on the sleeves first. The strips I cut needed to be sewn together, and I decided against turning them inside out as I would lose valuable millimeters in doing so, creating a large gap at the sleeve head attachment! I didn't want that, so I serged the two layers of wool together with a 3-thread overlock stitch, and added staystitching to relieve any pressure on the serged edges, hoping this will prevent fraying. I then pinned everything to the inner layers, and serged the top and bottom. But not before pondering the look of the thing.To the right you can see the outfit as far as it's done now. The bottom layer is the skirt with hand-sewn plastic plants in moss green. The corset is my infamous gingko-leaves corset. The top is a longsleeve that stops at my navel to prevent bulk. The sleeves end in selvedge and cover most of my hand -- as so little store-bought longsleeves do. And the coat I am constructing will go over all this and underneath the corset. Lucky for me the Beriadanwen coat is very well fitted around the waist too, or else bulk would accumulate there as well, making it quite an uncomfortable costume!
I pinned the sleeves to the mannequin before sewing anything down, because - as NoKey so eloquently put it - it looked like Zwarte Piet. I hm-ed. I hmmmmm'd. And then I sewed everything down regardless, instead calling it very promptly Snowwhite-ish. After all, he doesn't have to wear it and he's prejudiced against anything that has to do with Sinterklaas.
I like the sleeves. They won't be any longer than they currently are, and all they need is a strip at the bottom and the hand-dyed fringe I've got lying around somewhere in the box of Dryad-ey goo. It has flash dust, fake vines, vampire ears and even jewelry, and I'm kind of afraid to just blindly stick my hand in.
Perhaps I will have some spare time to sew on the coat tomorrow (probably not, though). Sewing everything together will be easy enough, the continuous rolled collar worked well enough last time I tried it, and the only thing to decide on is how high up the splits will go, and what kind of clasps I can use that won't hurt underneath that corset.
no subject
Date: 2009-01-31 09:53 am (UTC)Groetjes Margriet
no subject
Date: 2009-01-31 10:48 am (UTC)