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Wedding houpelande
Apr. 21st, 2008 10:18 amI wish to show off what I spent my weekend on! Here's the wedding houpelande I made for Lord Dierke. I sent him this picture in a 600x800 format yesterday.
Rolf, who plays Dierke, showed me a picture of what he'd like for his wedding costume. I immediately recognized a 14th century houpelande (I was a little sketchy on the exact century, but lo' and behold, Joan Nunn's Fashion in costume helped out there) and we brainstormed. He wanted a knee-length version with dagged sleeves and fur. I could choose a colour for him, either dark red or dark blue.
I remembered that I had this fabric in my cupboard and found a matching blue cotton to line the sleeves with. The fur was trickier as neither blue, brown or black really matched, and finally Rolf decided he wanted two white/grey bunnies on the sleeves. And because he'll wear his off-white trousers and off-white shirt underneath, he wanted the collar to be in the same kind of off-white linen. This could be arranged.
I also lengthened the legs of his trousers. Just don't get me started on mass-produced un-preshrunk crap.
So here we have it. The main material is a cotton-polyester blend. The more I worked with it, the more I'm convinced of the high polyester percentage in the fabric. It shed short black dust like asbestos. The floor of my atelier had smudges in this black dust from where I had trod. I had to vaccuum my entire atelier afterwards! I dread to think I still have this fabric in red lying around. But at least the atelier is nice and nearly clean now.
The buttons have been in my stock for more than two years. I was supposed to save them for![[livejournal.com profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/external/lj-userinfo.gif)
sna, because Sna really really wanted to learn to sew back then but never got around to actually coming over to do so. The buttons have now found a better purpose on this robe. They're gold-toned metal with fake pearl inlay. The one on the collar is smaller than the ones on the houpelande proper.
The collar is off-white linen, as mentioned, two layers. As the linen was rather thin, I stiffened both layers with "plakkatoen" (sticky cotton, lit.), a type of interfacing. It is edged by my serger (3-thread flat hem) and sewn on with a zig-zag and a decorative stitch #308.
The pleats are hand-sewn onto twill tape that is hidden inside. I loved doing the buttonholes, now that I know I need to insert a plate under my feed dogs they're amazingly perfect and easy to do.
I still need to make the matching chaperon, but that will be done tonight. The most labour-intensive part will be pressing the dagged edges, but seeing how this turned out for the sleeves of the houpelande, I have no fears there!
Rolf, who plays Dierke, showed me a picture of what he'd like for his wedding costume. I immediately recognized a 14th century houpelande (I was a little sketchy on the exact century, but lo' and behold, Joan Nunn's Fashion in costume helped out there) and we brainstormed. He wanted a knee-length version with dagged sleeves and fur. I could choose a colour for him, either dark red or dark blue. I remembered that I had this fabric in my cupboard and found a matching blue cotton to line the sleeves with. The fur was trickier as neither blue, brown or black really matched, and finally Rolf decided he wanted two white/grey bunnies on the sleeves. And because he'll wear his off-white trousers and off-white shirt underneath, he wanted the collar to be in the same kind of off-white linen. This could be arranged.
I also lengthened the legs of his trousers. Just don't get me started on mass-produced un-preshrunk crap.
So here we have it. The main material is a cotton-polyester blend. The more I worked with it, the more I'm convinced of the high polyester percentage in the fabric. It shed short black dust like asbestos. The floor of my atelier had smudges in this black dust from where I had trod. I had to vaccuum my entire atelier afterwards! I dread to think I still have this fabric in red lying around. But at least the atelier is nice and nearly clean now.
The buttons have been in my stock for more than two years. I was supposed to save them for
sna, because Sna really really wanted to learn to sew back then but never got around to actually coming over to do so. The buttons have now found a better purpose on this robe. They're gold-toned metal with fake pearl inlay. The one on the collar is smaller than the ones on the houpelande proper. The collar is off-white linen, as mentioned, two layers. As the linen was rather thin, I stiffened both layers with "plakkatoen" (sticky cotton, lit.), a type of interfacing. It is edged by my serger (3-thread flat hem) and sewn on with a zig-zag and a decorative stitch #308.
The pleats are hand-sewn onto twill tape that is hidden inside. I loved doing the buttonholes, now that I know I need to insert a plate under my feed dogs they're amazingly perfect and easy to do.
I still need to make the matching chaperon, but that will be done tonight. The most labour-intensive part will be pressing the dagged edges, but seeing how this turned out for the sleeves of the houpelande, I have no fears there!
