A Man's Trousers - school assignment
May. 4th, 2016 11:54 am![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
janestarzThe next school assignment I am working on is a man's trousers. I'm still in the process of fine-tuning my pattern by making test-trousers. Incidentally, Eisirt needs a new jeans so it's not just second-rate muslin. No, these are the full deal with pockets.
One of the demands is that we do a kind of bias tape / Hong-Kong finish on the crotch seam. Since this is a new technique and my classmates were complaining on our Facebook group that it's so hard to do, I decided to try my hand at it in Test-trouser number 2.
This is made from curtain fabric, slimmed down from the basic block, and I have good hopes that this will be a wearable model. (#1 was made from prickly fabric, so we salvaged the zipper and tossed the pants out.)
(Click for full-size image)
This is the center-front inside. I made pockets out of muslin fabric, and you can see my mom's machine has some problems with the delicacy of the fabric. Even the second stitching line of the pockets, where I fiddled with the tension, still has some uneven stitches (this is where the pocket facing is sewn down to the muslin, so it's not a horrible thing if this is not a strong seam). It is also the reason why I'm not working on the men's shirt right now.
I made a lot of mistakes while sewing this binding, and it's harder than I expected. I snipped the crotch seam the wrong way (cut towards the hem next time) and I accidentally included parts of the front leg when sewing the trim around the seam at the top, sewing a false pleat into the front panel. And this is pretty bulky satin binding, I believe we're supposed to be working with even thinner, cotton binding on the real thing. I think it might actually be easier to sew the binding around the edge of the underlap with a zipper foot, because the pressure is more even on your fabric and you're not wrestling with the zipper right next to where you're sewing.
But having tried my hand at this and learning from my mistakes, I'm sure the next one will be even better. And that's the one I'll be handing in for a grade.
One of the demands is that we do a kind of bias tape / Hong-Kong finish on the crotch seam. Since this is a new technique and my classmates were complaining on our Facebook group that it's so hard to do, I decided to try my hand at it in Test-trouser number 2.
This is made from curtain fabric, slimmed down from the basic block, and I have good hopes that this will be a wearable model. (#1 was made from prickly fabric, so we salvaged the zipper and tossed the pants out.)
(Click for full-size image)
This is the center-front inside. I made pockets out of muslin fabric, and you can see my mom's machine has some problems with the delicacy of the fabric. Even the second stitching line of the pockets, where I fiddled with the tension, still has some uneven stitches (this is where the pocket facing is sewn down to the muslin, so it's not a horrible thing if this is not a strong seam). It is also the reason why I'm not working on the men's shirt right now.
I made a lot of mistakes while sewing this binding, and it's harder than I expected. I snipped the crotch seam the wrong way (cut towards the hem next time) and I accidentally included parts of the front leg when sewing the trim around the seam at the top, sewing a false pleat into the front panel. And this is pretty bulky satin binding, I believe we're supposed to be working with even thinner, cotton binding on the real thing. I think it might actually be easier to sew the binding around the edge of the underlap with a zipper foot, because the pressure is more even on your fabric and you're not wrestling with the zipper right next to where you're sewing.
But having tried my hand at this and learning from my mistakes, I'm sure the next one will be even better. And that's the one I'll be handing in for a grade.
