School test on men's jackets
Jan. 25th, 2016 08:40 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
janestarzToday we had a big test! If I remember everything correctly, this will account for 25% of my final theory grade. That didn't mean I studied very hard, though. Maybe because pattern drafting is something you really need to practice to master.
The jacket was fitted, so which basic block to use was easy. I chose a 2-part sleeve to go with it. The shoulder seam had been moved forward and there was a pleat on the back. Maybe it was because it was a bit similar to what I drafted for my step-dad, but I didn't find it very hard to draft the pattern.
The pockets were difficult though. The coat had four pockets but there were three different styles. One had a safari-pleat (=inverted box pleat), one had no pleats and there were two with box pleats. There were also small straps with snaps on the back waist, the sleeve and the collar, so lots and lots of tiny pattern pieces.
Drafting the pattern took me an hour, and then I spent nearly an hour and 45 minutes working on the pockets and the pattern placement - tracing all the pattern pieces, and glueing them onto paper as if you are placing them on fabric. When I was finally done, I re-read the instructions and saw I had placed my lining pieces on 150 cm wide fabric, in stead of on 140 cm wide as requested. That meant I had to peel off all the tiny pattern pieces and re-glue them. It might not have been very economical, but it all fit. And I checked to see if I didn't forget any against the list I had made at the bottom of the paper. I was done with a quarter of an hour to spare. Phew!
While everyone was wrapping up I got a chance to ask my teacher about the pattern for Luc and we agreed I should probably try to least fitted block for him. She also hinted that looking at his other coats to see what block they might be drafted from could be helpful. I doubt I'll drive to Houten until I have another muslin ready. In any case, there's very little I can do if the largest block doesn't fit.
The jacket was fitted, so which basic block to use was easy. I chose a 2-part sleeve to go with it. The shoulder seam had been moved forward and there was a pleat on the back. Maybe it was because it was a bit similar to what I drafted for my step-dad, but I didn't find it very hard to draft the pattern.
The pockets were difficult though. The coat had four pockets but there were three different styles. One had a safari-pleat (=inverted box pleat), one had no pleats and there were two with box pleats. There were also small straps with snaps on the back waist, the sleeve and the collar, so lots and lots of tiny pattern pieces.
Drafting the pattern took me an hour, and then I spent nearly an hour and 45 minutes working on the pockets and the pattern placement - tracing all the pattern pieces, and glueing them onto paper as if you are placing them on fabric. When I was finally done, I re-read the instructions and saw I had placed my lining pieces on 150 cm wide fabric, in stead of on 140 cm wide as requested. That meant I had to peel off all the tiny pattern pieces and re-glue them. It might not have been very economical, but it all fit. And I checked to see if I didn't forget any against the list I had made at the bottom of the paper. I was done with a quarter of an hour to spare. Phew!
While everyone was wrapping up I got a chance to ask my teacher about the pattern for Luc and we agreed I should probably try to least fitted block for him. She also hinted that looking at his other coats to see what block they might be drafted from could be helpful. I doubt I'll drive to Houten until I have another muslin ready. In any case, there's very little I can do if the largest block doesn't fit.
