Blouse assignment for school
Jun. 6th, 2015 05:55 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
janestarzIt's been ages since I took the time for a dress diary and following in Alice-in-Wonderland's footsteps I decided to keep track of the time worked and materials bought. (I mean, I've got plenty of time for making a dress diary, since I only have to make a lined summer coat in a week. /sarcasm)
But muses come and go and after buying the initial fabrics and haberdashery, the journey didn't quite go as planned.
My inspiration picture was this, and these are the fabric and buttons I chose to make it with:
Cost of materials:
2 meters cotton: € 14,90
1 meter of skin-coloured interfacing because it's a semi-sheer fabric: € 9,50
15 buttons: € 2,70
Thread: € 3,40
Since I can't seem to post pictures from Pinterest here, I have shamelessly stolen this watermarked picture and uploaded it to Livejournal. Pinterest got it from Etsy, but I believe the watermark says EmbonpointVintage, so you can order the pattern there. I of course had to draft my own pattern because I'm freakishly tall and school teaches me the Rundschau method and wants to see me use it too. Here's the ¼ scale pattern:
Red lines are seams, green lines are facing.
While cutting out the pieces, I found that it was really hard to make the fabric stay put. Although it was 100% cotton, the fabric did not want to lie flat. But since it's a plaid fabric, you really need to watch the grainline! I tried my best, and finally cut out all the pattern pieces from single fabric. I matched the waistline over a white line and center front over a blue one.
The next hurdle was to sew everything together, but that also proved a challenge. The fabric was just hell to work with, so thin and crinkly, it was difficult to even match up the waistline stripes.
Worse, I had sent my blouse pattern to the teacher for checking and she said my sleeve was wrong: I had taken a measurement wrong and that resulted in a sleeve head that was too high. I had thought that because the sleeve was cut as one piece with the side-front panel, this would not be a problem, but it really was. The shoulder looked really weird and the sleeve just looked off.
And then there was that crinkly fabric. Now I knew it was a casual look, but this made me look just like I had stepped out of a dumpster.
After sighing and checking my stash for another fabric, I went back a few steps to square 2: using the new sleeve I had drafted for my pattern. You can see the difference between the two in the above picture: the new (correct) sleeve is on top, the old (wrong) sleeve is below. That's quite a difference, yo.
The fabric I still had in my stash was once bought for my mother. It was a stretchy cotton with a twist - literally: The stripes ran from selvedge to selvedge over the width of the fabric and the stretch ran down the length of the fabric. Still, no matter. Cotton is cotton and the stripes would work well for this model blouse. In the original the side panels were cut on the side, but I decided to let all the stripes go lengthwise. It makes for a nicer look at the back darts.
Working with those stripes (after being very careful and precise in my cutting!) made me squee with happiness sometimes.
Left: inside where the inside collar and outside collar meet. Right: back of collar.
The cuff of the sleeve was cut on the straight, making a nice edge to the bias-stripes of the sleeves.
And here's the finished product! I am very pleased!
I kept track of my progress. Thanks to some inaccuracies, I was busy for a bit longer than usual.
Cutting: 30 minutes
Interfacing and copying markings, first pinning: 45 minutes.
Stitching seams front: 15 minutes
Stitching collar and facings, stitching back panel: 2 hours
Ripping and re-stitching collar: 45 minutes.
Hem & cuff, topstitching: 45 minutes
Hem again, buttonholes: 1,5 hours.
------------
Total: 6,5 hours.
And for those of you who are wondering whether I was wise to toss out 15 euro of fabric and 10 euro of interfacing for some old stash cotton, here's the side-by-side comparison.
Look at how not sorry I am to be wearing this lovely, crease-free, perfectly fitting blouse!
But muses come and go and after buying the initial fabrics and haberdashery, the journey didn't quite go as planned.
My inspiration picture was this, and these are the fabric and buttons I chose to make it with:
Cost of materials:
2 meters cotton: € 14,90
1 meter of skin-coloured interfacing because it's a semi-sheer fabric: € 9,50
15 buttons: € 2,70
Thread: € 3,40
Since I can't seem to post pictures from Pinterest here, I have shamelessly stolen this watermarked picture and uploaded it to Livejournal. Pinterest got it from Etsy, but I believe the watermark says EmbonpointVintage, so you can order the pattern there. I of course had to draft my own pattern because I'm freakishly tall and school teaches me the Rundschau method and wants to see me use it too. Here's the ¼ scale pattern:
Red lines are seams, green lines are facing.
While cutting out the pieces, I found that it was really hard to make the fabric stay put. Although it was 100% cotton, the fabric did not want to lie flat. But since it's a plaid fabric, you really need to watch the grainline! I tried my best, and finally cut out all the pattern pieces from single fabric. I matched the waistline over a white line and center front over a blue one.
The next hurdle was to sew everything together, but that also proved a challenge. The fabric was just hell to work with, so thin and crinkly, it was difficult to even match up the waistline stripes.
Worse, I had sent my blouse pattern to the teacher for checking and she said my sleeve was wrong: I had taken a measurement wrong and that resulted in a sleeve head that was too high. I had thought that because the sleeve was cut as one piece with the side-front panel, this would not be a problem, but it really was. The shoulder looked really weird and the sleeve just looked off.
And then there was that crinkly fabric. Now I knew it was a casual look, but this made me look just like I had stepped out of a dumpster.
After sighing and checking my stash for another fabric, I went back a few steps to square 2: using the new sleeve I had drafted for my pattern. You can see the difference between the two in the above picture: the new (correct) sleeve is on top, the old (wrong) sleeve is below. That's quite a difference, yo.
The fabric I still had in my stash was once bought for my mother. It was a stretchy cotton with a twist - literally: The stripes ran from selvedge to selvedge over the width of the fabric and the stretch ran down the length of the fabric. Still, no matter. Cotton is cotton and the stripes would work well for this model blouse. In the original the side panels were cut on the side, but I decided to let all the stripes go lengthwise. It makes for a nicer look at the back darts.
Working with those stripes (after being very careful and precise in my cutting!) made me squee with happiness sometimes.
Left: inside where the inside collar and outside collar meet. Right: back of collar.
The cuff of the sleeve was cut on the straight, making a nice edge to the bias-stripes of the sleeves.
And here's the finished product! I am very pleased!
I kept track of my progress. Thanks to some inaccuracies, I was busy for a bit longer than usual.
Cutting: 30 minutes
Interfacing and copying markings, first pinning: 45 minutes.
Stitching seams front: 15 minutes
Stitching collar and facings, stitching back panel: 2 hours
Ripping and re-stitching collar: 45 minutes.
Hem & cuff, topstitching: 45 minutes
Hem again, buttonholes: 1,5 hours.
------------
Total: 6,5 hours.
And for those of you who are wondering whether I was wise to toss out 15 euro of fabric and 10 euro of interfacing for some old stash cotton, here's the side-by-side comparison.
Look at how not sorry I am to be wearing this lovely, crease-free, perfectly fitting blouse!
![[identity profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/openid.png){kind=small}
no subject
Date: 2015-06-07 05:57 am (UTC)And... wow... what a gorgeous collar!!
no subject
Date: 2015-06-07 07:33 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2015-06-07 09:24 am (UTC)Helaas doet je plaatje van het 'finished product' het niet.
Enne... misschien zie ik het verkeerd, maar als het nieuwe patroon van je mouw op alle punten kleiner is dan je vorige patroon, had je dan geen nieuwe mouw uit de al geknipte mouw kunnen halen? Een mouwpatroon sluit immers toch zo goed als nooit aan op het patroon van het torso-stuk.
no subject
Date: 2015-06-07 10:29 am (UTC)In principe heb je gelijk over de mouw, maar bij deze variant kan dat niet. De mouw is namelijk aangeplaatst en wordt dus in 1 stuk geknipt met het zij-voor en zij-achterpand. Als je naar het inspiratieplaatje kijkt, loopt er ook geen naad tussen het voorpand en de mouw.
De foto van het patroondeel is de "gedeelde mouw": je deelt de mouw in een stukje wat je aan het voorpand aanplaatst en een stukje wat je aan het achterpand aanplaatst. Het aanplaatsen doe je door de mouwkop tegen de schoudernaad aan te leggen. Als je mouwkop daar dus veel te hoog is (bijna 3 cm) komt het nooit meer goed. De hele lijn van je schouder naar het mouwdeel is daarop gebaseerd en de ruimte die je daar teveel krijgt door een verkeerde mouw te gebruiken kun je er niet meer uithalen. Het ligt echt op de schouderknok.
Als je naar het patroon kijkt (http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/janestarz/387416/220138/220138_original.jpg) zie je dat de 2 stukjes mouwpatroon aan het pand gelijmd zijn. Dit doe je al voordat je de patroondelen overneemt en de stof knipt. De zijnaad wordt dan in vorm getekend met een boogje naar de onderarm. Het "gat" tussen het oude armsgat en de mouwkop is extra stof die je dus als extra ruimte hebt.
Een mouw aanplaatsen doe je vaak voor kimono-mouwen, vleermuismouwen en ook voor raglan-mouwen. (Dit zijn de officiële vaktermen, dus niet de vleermuismouw zoals je vaak in een gothic jurk ziet.)
Ik had dus 7 patroondelen: middenvoor, middenachter, zijvoor, zij-achter, een mouwplint (dat manchetje), beleg voor en beleg achter.
no subject
Date: 2015-06-07 11:28 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2015-06-07 12:01 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2015-06-08 02:35 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2015-06-09 02:35 pm (UTC)Keurig genaaid.
Door je tips en veel hulp heb ik ook weer veel plezier in het breien van de trui.
Zit halverwege de 60 toeren tot de hals, Dus heel veel dank.
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