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[personal profile] janestarz
A few weeks ago I was fighting against all the different school assignments. I was hopping from drafting a blouse pattern to drafting a coat pattern, and they are in basis enough alike that they are most confusing. I made errors in my coat pattern, possibly because of it.
After finishing the blouse pattern on ¼ scale I showed it to my teacher, who approved of the work. But I was already at the point that I really couldn't keep switching between projects anymore. I made a clear list of which items I would still need to make and which elements of the process I would have to document: patterns, cutting lists and the actual sewn garment. But not even such a clear list could clear the clutter in my head.

Last Monday after school I decided to just finish one of the projects already. We're not officially bound to draft everything to our own sizes, but I did need a new pair of jeans. It's just that one of my major disadvantages is a rotund backside, which requires some tricks to account for in a pattern, making it so much harder to draft something that will fit me. I decided to draft the trousers to a standard size and just sew something pretty in stead of going through all that headaching effort to make a pair of jeans to fit me. As much as I do need a new pair of jeans, the headache this was causing me was just not worth it! I'll continue wearing my comfy jeans with all its holes until it's summer and I've got the time to draft it right.

Fancy trousers


Making the pattern was so much easier without having to account for my backside, and by Tuesday evening I had finished making the pattern and copied all the pattern pieces. On Wednesday morning I cut out my pattern pieces and quickly overlocked the edges, because the fabric I had chosen frayed as soon as I looked at it. I interfaced the facing and parts where the pockets would be, and continued sewing in the number of pockets. I took Thursday (Ascencion) off and finished them yesterday.

Sewing a pair of trousers isn't a big job, I've made five a day when I was working at QueenE, but those were simple straight trousers without any pockets or fancy details. This is a pair of fancy fancy trousers with two welt pockets on the bum, a shaped panel at the back hip to account for the darts, and pockets on the front side seam. This required some fancy, precision stitching before assembling the trousers themselves. (This is also why I am not looking forward to sewing a pair of jeans, with all that precision top-stitching and thick denim fabric!)

Still, I am somewhat pleased with the results, although I am unsure if I like the height of the welt pockets - they are 2 cm high, and I think 1 cm would have looked better on these slim trousers. But the best part of these trousers is that it takes one item off my to-do list and it was the final assignment for catching up last year.
Since I've handed in my sewing technique assignments already, all that is left for this year to sew is a blouse and the summer coat before my exams start on June 16th. So one more month to go...

Date: 2015-05-16 12:54 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] anemoona.livejournal.com
Sjieke broek! En met paspelzakken (wat voor de opdracht volgens mij niet eens hoefde, of de opdracht moet aangepast zijn in de tussentijd.)

Date: 2015-05-16 02:31 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] janestarz.livejournal.com
Nee, hoefden niet van de juf maar wel van mijn Muze. De opdracht was een broek met een rits met ondertree en voor de broek passende zakken. Steekzakken vind ik echt mega-pantalon en heup paszakken is zooo een jeans. Maar ik ken ook mooie pantalons met paspelzakken op de bips, en als je zo'n stofje hebt.... Alleen geen knoop + knoopsgaatje, daar moet ik nog eens hard over nadenken.

Omdat ik alle naaitechnieken over zakken gemist heb is het nog echt even puzzelen hoe je ze nu tekent.... voor de paspelzak ben ik eruit en ook de steekzak en de heuppaszak zullen wel goed komen. De anderen.... ga ik van de zomer, na alle examenstress, eens rustig bekijken.

Date: 2015-05-17 05:53 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] anemoona.livejournal.com
Mocht je voor dit gedeelte nog hulp nodig hebben, geef maar een gil. Ik heb al mijn aantekeningen bewaard.

Date: 2015-05-16 02:58 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] steelweaver.livejournal.com
Looking good! For jeans, would that be a good time to get out your edge stitch foot out, plus a nice hammer to whack those seam allowances into submission?

Date: 2015-05-16 06:28 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] janestarz.livejournal.com
I hardly need an edge stitch foot anymore, but I use my blind hem foot if I do...
The problem is the pattern. Drafting the standard pattern is easy and quickly done, but then there's the alterations for the rotund backside and that takes time and a lot of processing power to get done.

The pockets and topstitching is also extra work. Just like with these trousers, who took a few hours more than the QueenE trousers because of all the pockets. Interfacting the welts, marking the stitching lines. To work securely, you need to take some extra steps and if you're not working securely the welt pockets will be horrible.
(This pattern had 12 pattern pieces, which is not too bad. )

Date: 2015-05-18 08:56 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] querca-robur.livejournal.com
Wow, it looks perfect. I love the fabric too!

Date: 2015-05-18 08:50 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] janestarz.livejournal.com
And after I get my grade it will be for sale!

Date: 2015-05-19 10:48 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] querca-robur.livejournal.com
Hah, leuk! Alleen de vraag of het past... ;)

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