Gambeson, part 1
May. 7th, 2013 11:03 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
janestarzLots of things happened since last I blogged, but none of them are particularly interesting to write or read about, so I'll stick to something fun: my new gambeson.
I remember asking if I should make a dress diary out of it, but the truth of the matter is I can't really do that as I don't have time for making a dress diary. A lot of time is eaten by taking pictures, editing pictures, deciding what story to tell and how, and putting things online.
I started out with a basic block pattern for a jacket from my measurements of last year, which are still accurate enough -- the weight I gained during the winter has gone away again -- and traced the pattern. The block goes to hip height, so I added nearly 60 cm of length at the bottom to make sure this gambeson will be long enough. When the pattern was done, I started cutting out the pieces.
Lucky for me I checked if I had enough fabric, and I realised that I didn't. Three meters wasn't enough to have all the pattern pieces (which were quite long!) fit the fabric. I decided to cut the center-front and center-back panels into two pieces on the waistline so I could put them at a fold, and wedge the narrow pieces of 'skirt' next to other, longer pieces. Sadly, there was no way I could get my long sleeves out of the pattern as well, so I cut the two pieces of the sleeve off at the elbow line and put the two halves next to one another for a single sleeve pattern piece that would be shorter. Ah, pattern wrestling!
I had found a cotton batting normally used for quilting, which is a lot less thick than the two layers of wool I used for my first gambeson, and (hopefully) less prone to shrinking. However, with the length of this gambeson and short sleeves, I hope it will be less noticable if it should occur. It's also slightly cooler (I hope).
Monday I visited Tim in Hilversum and while we watched Django Unchained in HD, I basted all layers together for all but three of the pattern pieces. I have also already decided on a quilting pattern (diamonds next to diamonds, creating a narrow strip between them) and found some scraps of nearly the same colour canvas that I can use to sew all the pattern pieces together. This is needed because I cut all my pattern pieces without seam allowance, else I can't assemble the gambeson after quilting the pieces.
All in all, it's all very thoroughly likable for a larp-proof, thin gambeson with an extra-long skirt for extra Jory-winter-is-comingness. Next Thursday is ascencion, which means I've got the whole day off from sewing to sew and make some more great progress!
(Memo to me: what colour thread to use?)
I remember asking if I should make a dress diary out of it, but the truth of the matter is I can't really do that as I don't have time for making a dress diary. A lot of time is eaten by taking pictures, editing pictures, deciding what story to tell and how, and putting things online.
I started out with a basic block pattern for a jacket from my measurements of last year, which are still accurate enough -- the weight I gained during the winter has gone away again -- and traced the pattern. The block goes to hip height, so I added nearly 60 cm of length at the bottom to make sure this gambeson will be long enough. When the pattern was done, I started cutting out the pieces.
Lucky for me I checked if I had enough fabric, and I realised that I didn't. Three meters wasn't enough to have all the pattern pieces (which were quite long!) fit the fabric. I decided to cut the center-front and center-back panels into two pieces on the waistline so I could put them at a fold, and wedge the narrow pieces of 'skirt' next to other, longer pieces. Sadly, there was no way I could get my long sleeves out of the pattern as well, so I cut the two pieces of the sleeve off at the elbow line and put the two halves next to one another for a single sleeve pattern piece that would be shorter. Ah, pattern wrestling!
I had found a cotton batting normally used for quilting, which is a lot less thick than the two layers of wool I used for my first gambeson, and (hopefully) less prone to shrinking. However, with the length of this gambeson and short sleeves, I hope it will be less noticable if it should occur. It's also slightly cooler (I hope).
Monday I visited Tim in Hilversum and while we watched Django Unchained in HD, I basted all layers together for all but three of the pattern pieces. I have also already decided on a quilting pattern (diamonds next to diamonds, creating a narrow strip between them) and found some scraps of nearly the same colour canvas that I can use to sew all the pattern pieces together. This is needed because I cut all my pattern pieces without seam allowance, else I can't assemble the gambeson after quilting the pieces.
All in all, it's all very thoroughly likable for a larp-proof, thin gambeson with an extra-long skirt for extra Jory-winter-is-comingness. Next Thursday is ascencion, which means I've got the whole day off from sewing to sew and make some more great progress!
(Memo to me: what colour thread to use?)
![[identity profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/openid.png){kind=small}
no subject
Date: 2013-05-08 06:36 am (UTC)I don't get that. Why?
no subject
Date: 2013-05-09 08:48 am (UTC)With my previous gambeson I butted the edges of the panels together, basted the panels together with an overhand stitch (especially on curved seams) and sewed a piece of straight-grain tape, with the edges folded under, over the "seam". The tape covers the butted seam and provides extra support.
To make this tape (be it bias-cut tape or straight-grain tape) you need long pieces of uncut fabric, which was kind of hard since I was running out of fabric, so I was glad to find some scraps in Tilburg. For pictures and more info, check out the dress diary of my first gambeson (http://dressdiaries.livejournal.com/539978.html).