Shaping

[janestarz]

This week has been all about the shaping of pattern pieces. NoKey's men's shirt has a very big collar that I've pinned in the round over a big jar, making sure the undercollar is smaller than the upper collar. Laugh if you want, but I find it makes for a far better shaping at the neckline. His collar stands perfectly upright around the neck, and doesn't want to lie flat (which happens if you pin it flat before stitching the upper and undercollar together).

The best picture to illustrate what the difference I have is this one, back in the day I made my gambeson. It shows exactly what happens when you put the collar, that is designed to curve around the neck, flat on a table. You can imagine the opposite happens when you stitch it flat and you want it to curve nicely around a neck!

I'm also working on an NPC costume for Badger's Business, taking care to do proper innards for the coat I am making. I've just finished herringbone stitching the canvas to the first center front panel and padstitching the lapel, making sure it curls nicely. Next up is the other center front piece...

People might think me crazy for putting so much work into an NPC's costume, but I find it good practice. I need to be able to pull off a decent padstitch by the time I hand in my exam pieces, after all, and I need all the practice I can get.

Comments

[kass-rants.livejournal.com]

Wonderful realisation! Sewing sometimes works much better when not done in the flat. The sewing machine has really messed with our ability to make clothing fit the body.

This is why I get so frustrated with people who email me that they measured my pattern and piece A is too big to sew to piece B. Sewing for a three-dimensional body requires pattern pieces that aren't the same length in two dimensions. A piece that needs to curve must be smaller when flat than the piece to which it attaches. It frustrates me that people find the need to "check my math" by measuring things. I try to explain that the pieces fit when sewn according to the instructions, but sometimes people are too certain that they know better.

[steelweaver.livejournal.com]

Sounds like a good way to get your practice in *and* make an NPC look the part. NPC garb is often tricky with the limited budgets and one-size-fits-none sizing, it's nice when you can take it a step further.

[janestarz.livejournal.com]

And for BB, we have the funds available -- getting full compensation for the fabric *and* haberdashery makes it worth while not just for the practice but also because I'm not paying a dime to make it this pretty.