Paspelzak - Welt pocket

[janestarz]

Last night I finished the first pocket on the pocketspiece.



Steps:

Baste the lines of the pocket and the ends of the pocket.

Cut one strip of lining fabric, 20 cm wide.

Cut two rectangles of right fabric 7 x 20 cm

Cut one rectangle of right fabric 8 x 20 cm

Cut a strip of glue-in interfacing several centimeters longer than the slit of the pocket.

Glue interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric, over your basting stitches so it extends to either side of the vertical basting.

Baste lining fabric over the place where the pocket will be, extending a little above the place where the slit will be. The lining should be straight with the grain of the pattern piece.

Baste the rectangle of 8 x 20 cm to the lower edge of the lining piece, aligning edges. This will be the pocket facing, so you will see the right fabric if the pocket is opened a bit.

Baste the rectangles of 7 x 20 cm so the edge will line up with the basting where you will cut the pocket. After basting one, copy with chalk the edges of the slit. Then baste the other and extend the chalk to the other side, so you know where to stop sewing.

Sew these rectangles onto the fabric, about half a centimeter from where the edges meet and where you will cut the slit. Stop at the chalk line.

Very carefully cut exactly in the middle between these two lines, where the two pieces of fabric meet. Stop 1 or 2 centimeters from the edge. This is the tricky bit: cut towards your stitching from that point towards both stitch lines and make sure you cut right up to the stitches. (During these steps you will also be sewing and cutting through the bit of lining you basted on. That's not a problem.)

Press these seams open. This will be awkward.

Leaving the seams pressed open, move the rectangles to the wrong side of the fabric, but take care not to fold the seam allowance inside. The trick to a good welt pocket is that there's a little welt and you're making it now. The seam allowance on both sides stick out into the opening, and meet in the middle. There's just a bit of fabric covering them.

Baste the welts on the right side of the fabric.

Fold the rectangles up so you can sew the welt into place without sewing the pattern piece as well. You're going to have to figure it out since I can't describe it without ten pictures. You'll be sewing the rectangles, the bit of lining caught in that welt, but not the pattern piece. Since the rectangle is now folded to the other side, this is where you make sure it doesn't go anywhere.

Baste the rest of the rectangles so they will not curl strangely next to your slit. Baste these two "rolled hems" together.

Fold the triangles in the corners under and sew across without catching the pattern piece.

Baste the welt pocket closed with a herringbone stitch (flanelsteek).

Remove the basting that's keeping the lining piece in place. It's now stitched down and we want to sew the lining without sewing the pattern piece.

Fold the lining piece up, so the raw edge of the right fabric is caught between two layers of lining. Baste and sew a scant half centimeter from the edge, catching the raw edge so it will stay out of sight.

Fold the other raw edge of the right fabric under, baste and stitch it to the lining fabric.

Fold the lining fabric up so the right fabric is behind the welt and sew it to the welt rectangle and the bit of lining fabric extending from the top of the welt. Sew it as close to the welt as possible (one centimeter is close enough.)

Sew and finish the sides of the pocket lining without sewing the pattern piece. Round the bottom corners to stop fluff from accumulating there.

Your welt pocket is done!

I might have missed some removal of basting in this description, but it makes for a very pretty welt pocket (and I'm not even very good at sewing the little triangles down).

Comments

[lenny (from livejournal.com)]

Ach ja, de geneugten van het maken van een paspelzak :-S

Het blijft altijd moeilijk om te voorkomen dat hij in de hoekjes wat gaat trekken.