First practical lesson - Pocketspiece
Mar. 2nd, 2012 09:48 am![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
janestarzThe practical lessons start with what we call in Dutch a 'zakkenpand' -- it's a pattern piece with a lot of pockets in it, which we with our crazy grammar glue together into one word: 'pocketspiece'. Needless to say, some of these pockets like the welt pocket cause seamstresses headaches at times, no matter how many cardboard jigs you make to help you with it.
I am particularly interested in how the official way goes. You can find a tutorial about pretty much everything on the internet*, but that doesn't mean there isn't a better or a more traditional way to do things.
Wednesday evening I got a piece of very fine wool suiting (schurwolle in German, it was woven into the selvedge) and cardboard pattern pieces. After placing iron pattern weights on the cardboard, I had to trace the edges and add a 2 cm seam allowance around all sides. At the bottom, a hem of 5 centimeters was added and I could leave the selvedge attached on one end. The pockets were marked with tiny dots and I traced between the dots using a ruler and a french curve.
Then I set out to trace the original pattern piece with basting thread, as well as all the pockets and the folding line of the rever. I worked diligently as the women around me chatted away. Someone bought coffee for everyone and Helen had brought a cookie for everyone. (Memo to me: save up 50 cent pieces or bring a thermos of tea)
I also had to trace two parts of a sleeve, because we are also going to do a sleeve slit. You have to mirror the sleeve at the hem to make sure the hem is wide enough when you fold it up (I always fudge it, every fabric has at least a little give, especially if you refuse to use polyester fabrics). The sleeve seam allowances were a little different, but I managed well enough. More tracing with basting was done. It's a good thing I don't mind hand sewing at all. I think it's rather relaxing.
The next step was to create the pocket lining in a shimmery cotton (not quite as thick as pants-weight, but thicker than summer blouses) and facings for the pocket. From the cotton I cut a strip of 20 cm wide. For the facings I had to cut two pieces of 7 by 20 cm long and one piece of 8 by 20 cm. The slit of the pocket was reinforced with a bit of interfacing (vlieseline - over all the basting thread) and I basted one of the 7cm bits next to the basting on the right side of the fabric.
And that is about as far as I came in three hours! It's a lot of work, but not unpleasant at all. It's interesting to hear the other ladies chat and go about their work.
As homework I have to baste the other facing down and sew them both, but I have two weeks to do that, which is plenty. To be continued!
-----
*) My preparations for Legendfalls include watching tutorials on how to skin a rabbit, having a haircut and possibly even setting a few dreads this time. Just so that I am prepared.
I am particularly interested in how the official way goes. You can find a tutorial about pretty much everything on the internet*, but that doesn't mean there isn't a better or a more traditional way to do things.
Wednesday evening I got a piece of very fine wool suiting (schurwolle in German, it was woven into the selvedge) and cardboard pattern pieces. After placing iron pattern weights on the cardboard, I had to trace the edges and add a 2 cm seam allowance around all sides. At the bottom, a hem of 5 centimeters was added and I could leave the selvedge attached on one end. The pockets were marked with tiny dots and I traced between the dots using a ruler and a french curve. Then I set out to trace the original pattern piece with basting thread, as well as all the pockets and the folding line of the rever. I worked diligently as the women around me chatted away. Someone bought coffee for everyone and Helen had brought a cookie for everyone. (Memo to me: save up 50 cent pieces or bring a thermos of tea)
I also had to trace two parts of a sleeve, because we are also going to do a sleeve slit. You have to mirror the sleeve at the hem to make sure the hem is wide enough when you fold it up (I always fudge it, every fabric has at least a little give, especially if you refuse to use polyester fabrics). The sleeve seam allowances were a little different, but I managed well enough. More tracing with basting was done. It's a good thing I don't mind hand sewing at all. I think it's rather relaxing.
The next step was to create the pocket lining in a shimmery cotton (not quite as thick as pants-weight, but thicker than summer blouses) and facings for the pocket. From the cotton I cut a strip of 20 cm wide. For the facings I had to cut two pieces of 7 by 20 cm long and one piece of 8 by 20 cm. The slit of the pocket was reinforced with a bit of interfacing (vlieseline - over all the basting thread) and I basted one of the 7cm bits next to the basting on the right side of the fabric.
And that is about as far as I came in three hours! It's a lot of work, but not unpleasant at all. It's interesting to hear the other ladies chat and go about their work.
As homework I have to baste the other facing down and sew them both, but I have two weeks to do that, which is plenty. To be continued!
-----
*) My preparations for Legendfalls include watching tutorials on how to skin a rabbit, having a haircut and possibly even setting a few dreads this time. Just so that I am prepared.
